In a continuing series of features, Bob Sturges of Omni Capital offers a personal view on some of London's finest, if not always best-known, restaurants....
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In a continuing series of features, Bob Sturges of Omni Capital offers a personal view on some of London's finest, if not always best-known, restaurants.
This month...
Cecconi's, 5a Burlington Gardens, London, W1S 3EP
With something of a reputation as a glamorous celebrity hang-out, Cecconi's is nonetheless a top-notch provider of northern-Italian inspired food and wine. There's been a restaurant of the same name on this site for at least forty years. The management and decor may have changed several times, but Cecconi's keeps on pulling them in.
In a prime location flanked by Savile Row and Bond Street, Cecconi's caters to glitterati and tourist alike. Its straightforward menu is unlikely to faze even the most inexperienced of diners and is often supplemented by seasonal specialities (truffles on a recent visit). Food prices are perfectly reasonable but, being Mayfair, it's all-too-easy to get seriously mugged by the wine list.
Attractively laid-out with a large central bar dominating the space, floor-to-ceiling picture windows and a vibrant colour scheme of green, white and black combine to give an air of freshness. The front-of-house team comprises largely Italians (and pretty glamorous some of them are too) who are plentiful in number and clearly experienced in serving a busy, demanding clientele. But a simple 'please' or 'thank you' always elicits an appreciative smile.
A particular plus point is the restaurant's operating hours: they never seem to close! Whether you fancy a power breakfast, steely-eyed business lunch, tea-time light bite or candle-lit romantic dinner for two, Cecconi's is the place to come. Augmented by the delights of watching a clientele that is, depending on your tastes, either chi-chi glitzy or West End trash, the time will pass interestingly regardless of your chosen meal type.
But for me, the food remains the star. Italians do 'simple' better than anyone else; and at Cecconi's, a dish of pasta can be the best thing you've tasted in months. Even the desserts get a look in from me. Sweets tend not to float-my-boat too often, but a semi-freddo here accompanied by an eyeball-popping espresso is not the worst way to end a satisfying meal.
Book ahead - Cecconi's is popular - and arrive early for a drink at the bar. From here you get a real sense of the buzz and vitality of the place: prime London dining at its most entertaining
Top Tip: Try Cecconi's for a late lunch/early supper. Just last week, myself and Martin 'Man Hug' Gilsenan treated the editorial team from an estimable industry trade title to a long-overdue visit. At their (busy) editor's request, I booked for 3pm - an absolute no-no for many places. Not Cecconi's: it was busy throughout and bereft of pressure to surrender the table (and I left at 7pm; others, ahem, later).
Nearby Watering Hole: The restaurant's bar is unbeatable for aperitifs. For later, head over to the American Bar at Brasserie Zedel (Sherwood Street, just north of Piccadilly Circus). This Art Deco dream-piece offers sultry lighting, even sultrier waitresses and a terrific choice of post-prandial palate perk-uppers.
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