This month...

Rules, 34 Maiden Lane, London, WC2E 7LB

Continuing with the 'game' theme from last month's review, this time round I'm taking you to 'Rules'. Situated between the Strand and bustling Covent Garden, it was founded in 1798 and claims to be the capital's oldest restaurant. Few dissent.

Known principally for its offering of British game sourced partly from its own estate in the Pennines, Rules nonetheless caters to a wide range of culinary tastes. It is staunchly traditional - a role it plays with fervour - and has the air of a magnificent late-Victorian dining salon furnished throughout with plush banquettes and booths, deep-red in colour and very comfortable.

Aficionados of the subjects come to Rules as much for its collection of art, drawing and cartoons as for the food. With deep connections to the literary arts, theatre and cinema the restaurant has played host to an enviable historical cast that includes Charles Dickens, H.G. Wells, Charlie Chaplin and Clark Gable. John Le Carre is numbered among the more famous of recent diners.

While best enjoyed in autumn and winter, Rules is horribly popular throughout the year. The tourist hordes love the place and flock here in battalions. Booking is therefore essential. But it retains a sufficiently loyal following among the natives to relieve the feeling of being caught in a kitschly-themed museum piece.

Despite my fondness for places like this (see too: Simpson's-in-the-Strand and Wilton's), I cannot be too effusive about the food. Fine dining it ain't. But it is served hot, in good-sized portions and from a range that very few places can match. On a recent visit, the roasted Red Leg Partridge, complete with lead shot, was right on the money for a cold December evening. The wine list is good too and offers some classics at very fair prices.

As mentioned, now is a great time to try Rules. If so inclined, combine it with a day's shopping or an evening at the theatre. The rather obvious attractions of Covent Garden are literally a few minute's walk away; and entering the comforting bosom of Rules' interior after barging into dawdling tourists and half-lost day-trippers is a pleasant reminder of gentler times. Or so I like to think.

Top tip: Don't let the staff push you around. They're used to dealing with a pretty compliant clientele that can be a overawed by the traditions and grandeur of the place. If need be, remind them that you're the paying customer. I particularly object to their habit of clearing one completed course only for it to be replaced immediately by the next. Whoaah, Trigger - slow down, boy.

Nearby Watering Hole: Look no further then the restaurant's upstairs cocktail bar. One of London's hidden gems it pursues the plush, red theme with a vengeance. Predominantly table-service, the staff here are excellent and serve a short but imaginatively-constructed list of classic cocktails expertly and efficiently. The Dry Martini is the house speciality, but don't ask for it shaken if you want to avoid the disapproving arched eyebrow of the bar manager!

By Bob Sturges of Omni Capital